In the 2000s, we were far from the black representation we have today: there were only Destiny's child, and it was Rihanna's beginnings. Apart from them, in France, we were black in a white country. Through ads, music videos, movies and series, the world imposed aesthetic canons on little black girls that did not look like them. So afro hair, the ultimate pageantry of difference, indomitable, voluminous, source of mockery, remarks and non-consensual contacts, we are many to have hated them.
It's not "just hair," and it never has been. Hair is a distinction, and today it is necessary to hear and wear their political statement. To assume them — just like to assume our hairstyles — is to say: we no longer apologize for being who we are. In other words, we deny and reject your Eurocentric criteria. That is to say: we love each other, without limit.
And it is this revolt, this essential commitment that ticks on one point: white dominance in Afro cosmetics – even though the industry has only recently transitioned to a more "inclusive" policy (the new buzzword).
A choice of direction that is not without consequences
On the one hand, we have brands that have never been black-owned (Cantu, Dark and lovely, African pride…) and on the other, those founded by black companies bought by white companies (Shea Moisture, Aunt Jackie's, Carol's Daughter…). If you have textured hair, these names are familiar to you.
And while Cantu products can certainly be of great help, especially for wavy hair, less than 1% of the 500 richest companies in the world are black-owned ! It is therefore important to support the business of those that the industry refuses (and no, it is not only communitarianism). This is a step to stop widening inequalities, and especially when afro hair care turns between 10 and 20 € per product, and sometimes exceeds 40 €. We are far from Garnier pricing at 3 € per bottle — which, often, do not meet the needs of hair type 3C and more. So every action counts.
And because, second point, we deserve better for our hair too.
We know that the cosmetics industry is not the most ethical: and although there is a new influx of vegan and cruelty-free products, this does not mean that they do not contain mineral oils, or endocrine disruptors. That is one thing.
Now, it is another that the composition of the products changes completely, when the brand changes from a black direction to a white direction.
And we now look at the second scenario: black brands sold to large cosmetic groups run by non-racialized CEOs. All have been the subject of growing and well-founded dissatisfaction, while once functional products have caused their users to lose hair by handle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6cEbt8pvUU Of course, each hair being different, these situations are not universal and do not happen to all ! Many people continue to use Shea Moisture or Aunt Jackie's without impacting them. But the problem is that, factually, the compositions have been significantly altered, leading to situations that should not happen at all.
Healthy and eco-friendly options
Today, the cosmetic world is realizing the golden vein of textured hair care, while, according to an American study, African-American women spend 9x more than their white counterparts for their hair.
It's a chance: a chance for new black-owned businesses to develop, but also a chance to be able to choose healthier, more eco-friendly hair alternatives: to name a few, Alikay Naturelles, Noir ô Naturel, or Soarn have clean, ethical and natural compositions. The last two are French brands, produced in France. But there is also the DIY option, in order to compose your own products, such as shea whipped cream from raw ingredients (shea butters, coconut, jojoba oil, hemp).
Again, it's not just hair. That is a statement. But it is also a fight for a stronger presence of minorities in positions of power, positions of decision, in a business where they are the first concerned.
