As summer draws to a close, the summer heat brings out all facets of delicate perfumes. For a solar wake, here is a small selection of new perfumes by JustFocus!
Queen Next Door by Gellé frères
The former perfume house Gellé frères, founded in 1826, rises from its glorious ashes with a line of five floral fragrances intended to awaken the queen in every modern woman. Based on state-of-the-art perfumery technology, Queen Next Door offers alcohol-free formulations, based on micro-encapsulated essential oils ensuring a long-lasting hold without the risk of photosensitization or drying of the skin. Rose Galante, Audacious Lily, Bohemian Magnolia, Fleur d'Or-enjouée or Ylang-Ylang Fatal are all positive inspirations for every day. Among all these flowers, we tested Rose Galante and Ylang-Ylang Fatal for two sensual but totally opposite universes.
Rose Galante : the rose is the great classic of perfumery, intimately linked to women, it is the basis of some of the greatest successes such as Miss Dior, Trésor or Joy. A time cheesy, the rose is back in force for a few years. Rose Galante is a modern and light vision of the queen of flowers. Following a fresh and fruity top note mixed with violet leaves, we find a crunchy and green rose on an equally delicate background of cedar and white musk. Ideal for summer, this juice is not heady, quite the contrary and comes in a delightful white bottle where are drawn the rosewood contours, of a fully blooming rose. The magnetic cap is ringed with a ring of the same color and surmounted by a vertical disc circled in gold, stamped with the logo of the house.
Rose Galante – Gellé Frères – 50ml – 64.00€
Ylang-Ylang Fa
tal proposes a radically different formulation. No romanticism but a sensuality on the skin. Exotic flower par excellence, ylang-ylang tells the story of a confident woman to whom nothing resists. It all starts with sparkling citrus notes of mandarin and bergamot that pave the way for warm ylang-ylang mixed with leather for a barely concealed animality. The temperature rises again with base notes vanilla, musk, tonka bean and amber. This fragrance can still be worn on all occasions because the encapsulation ensures a prolonged diffusion without falling into head. YlangYlan Fatal is contained in a white bottle adorned with a silhouette of a deep red ylang-ylang flower like passion. The magnetic cap is also circled with the same red.
Ylang-Ylang Fatal – Brothers Jelly – 50ml – 64.00€
Mizensir Parfums – By Master Perfumer Alberto Morillas
Skilled perfumer, Alberto Morillas launches his range of haute parfumerie, Mizensir, with the aim of creating, in total freedom, balanced perfumes based on precious natural materials, citrus, jasmine, neroli, Mediterranean flowers, tuberose and orange blossoms.
Épines de rose offers an original postulate. It is not a classic rose fragrance, but to restore the often neglected dark side of the beautiful: its thorns! To achieve this surprising and daring result, Alberto Morillas opted for a spicy and intriguing opening based on mandarin, ginger and agarwood. The heart of the perfume is composed around the famous Bulgarian rose, pink and black pepper. The whole is based on base notes of limbanol, incense and Alaskan cedar. This perfume with an assertive character remains discreet and diffused all day long. The clear juice is contained in a rectangular glass bottle where the name of the perfume and the house stands out on a metallic label.
Rose Thorn – Mizensir Parfums – 100ml – 190€
Gold powder is not far from the alchemical composition with original and sweet components. The perfume reflects its golden and comforting bursts of a summer that never stops, the warmth of joyful and unforgettable moments, because perfume is also that, the magic of bringing back and lasting comforting memories. The formula opens with an accord of tiare flower and paradisone, revealing itself on a heart of powdery iris and exaltone supported by a warm and gourmet background of Madagascar vanilla and Australian sandalwood. The surprise is total and the spell lasts all day. The slightly golden juice is contained in a rectangular glass bottle adorned with a gold metallic label with the name of the perfume and that of the house inscribed.
Gold Powder – Mizensir Parfums – 100ml – 190€
ID Parfums
ID parfums enriches its already impressive range with solinotes paying tribute to the most refined essences in the world. To open this parade of scents, here comes Magnolia Alba n°1 which takes us to the China of the mountains of Guangxi in the footsteps of a particular essence of white magnolia. This one gently envelops the one who wears it for an undoubtedly feminine cocoon. Top note is fresh, green, almost watery notes of hyacinth and freesia combined with notes of magnolia. Then the heart is revealed, all in white flowers of the lily, the magnolia and the rose. Finally, we find an invigorating background with cheerful vetiver and comforting vanilla. Transparent and slightly green, the juice comes in a bottle with sleek white glass shapes where the perfume label stands out.
Eau de Parfum Magnolia Alba N°1 – ID Parfums – 50ml – 65.00€
From mysterious China to mesmerizing Japan, there is only one step we take with Fleurs de Kyoto, still at ID Parfums. Light and spring are the two adjectives that best describe Kyoto Flowers. The former imperial capital of Japan still enjoys a singular aura almost out of time. The composition revolves around two typically Japanese ingredients with the tasty and sweet pear nashi combined with the elegant delicacy of the cherry blossom supported by the softness of the white wood. Discreet, it is worn on all occasions. The round and pink bottle recalls the shape of the pear and the color of sakura.
Kyoto Flowers – ID Parfums – 60ml – 47.00€
July of St Barth – the Exclusives
July of St Barth presents Les exclusifs, a set of 5 perfumes with intense notes that leave no one indifferent, especially since the outfit is remarkable over time.
Intense Love recalls the sweet warmth of summer love, when the sun at its zenith warms hearts. The delicacy of discovery mixes with the sweetness of holidays by the sea. Thus, Amour intense opens with marine and fruity notes of apple, apricot and lemon before plunging into a heart of caramel, ylang-ylang and rose on a background of amber, vanilla and oak moss. On the bottle side, it is oval, glass with a golden stopper evoking a pearl oyster.
Magic Night takes the wearer into a night of endless gluttony that is both fruity and powdery. Far from fruit salad, here it is the best of each fruit that is expressed. The night begins its crazy farandole with citrus notes of lemon, bergamot, mandarin, orange and raspberry and melon. The night continues with a heart of apple-blackcurrant-coconut before ending with sensual notes of musk, vanilla and talk. The bottle is substantially the same as for Intense Love.
Neroli Imperial puts the orange blossom in the spotlight, as its name suggests. Star ingredient, orange blossom brings warmth and refinement. This floral fragrance, totally feminine, initially combines the green and fresh notes of bergamot and lily of the valley and the sensuality of ylang-ylang. A heart of rose-jasmine is then revealed surrounded by violets and orange blossom, to finish with notes of amber, white musk and cedar wood.
Men are not to be outdone with L'Homme amoureux who, in an armful of flowers and spices, comes to season the life of his bride. It all starts with the passion of the spices of pink pepper, cinnamon and oranges and lemons tangy like a kiss. Taking advantage of this warmth, the middle notes are revealed between rose and white musk before abandoning to the sensuality of oud and vanilla.
Tears of the East, opulent and generous, narrates the loves of an unhappy princess. Yet it exudes all the warmth, gluttony and rich aromas of these distant and fascinating lands. The fragrance opens with fruity notes of watermelon, mandarin and peach before slipping into the thousand and one facets of patchouli and oud, sublimated by a background of amber, rose and vanilla.
The Exclusives – 100 ml – 215€
Cheyenne-Marie Carron – Parfums d'Europe
The big surprise of this selection is the brand new line of perfumes by director Cheyenne-Maris Carron , simply entitled Parfums d'Europe. New in perfumery, the cineastre offers bold and raised compositions, sometimes surprising, always telling. A real signature perfume for those who adorn themselves with it.
Anchored in ancient European culture but also in its own history, Cheyenne-Marie Carron offers a range with very different fragrances but nevertheless warm and meaningful, far from perfumery calibrated for the general public. Sometimes surprising, some juices will need time to tame and live on the skin. For her debut, she offers six perfumes, two for women: Marie and Le parfum d'Yseult; one for men: Mythical legionnaire; and three mixed: Folk, Wild Body and Pagan Sun. All without exception offer an excellent hold on the skin.
Folk is a very fresh and green clear citrus, invigorating like a clear wind from Northern Europe. Top note is geranium and neroli, followed by heart notes of musk, orange and bergamot supported by clary sage.
The perfume of Yseult, with its poetic name, is based on an unusual composition offering an unforgettable and immediately recognizable result as vigorous as evocative of the warmth of forbidden love. While peach and musk frolic in top note, they are gradually replaced by ginger, neroli, iralia and vanillin under which we guess a very sensual leather background.
Marie, first perfume created by Cheyenne-Marie Carron and dedicated to her mother. While one would expect rose and white flowers, this is not the case. See this simple and effective composition, articulated coconut and incense around white musk.
Pagan Sun lives up to its name. From the opening, one is invaded by an impression of intense heat, beachside and extra-ripe exotic fruits. This fruity-oriental opens with a dialogue between cherry and lychee. Then come heavy citrus like a walk in an orchard in the middle of August. The sun of the East is revealed with jasmine and myrrh.
Mythical Legionnaire, just as personal as Mary, takes on the manly notes expected of a man who has wandered around the world. Citrus fruits lead the way for powerful notes of musk, leather and tuberose backed by myrrh and black pepper. These perfumes are very affordable with 100 ml for 79€, so there is no reason not to be tempted by a unique trip.
