Every year, Europe highlights the culture of its member countries and their regions. Thus, the lucky winner of 2018 is Leeuwarden, capital of Friesland. It is the northernmost region of Holland. With fertile soils and numerous monuments, Friesland is renowned for its agriculture and tourist attraction. Even before becoming the European Capital of Culture, Leeuwarden was already a city where art and heritage figured prominently.
A vast cultural ensemble
Frisian Museum : this vast building with its bright architecture simultaneously offers several permanent and temporary exhibitions and hosts a cinematheque, a café and a shop. The two permanent exhibitions concern the Frisian resistance during the Second World War and the Frisian identity. This section in particular shows the different facets of regional culture ranging from traditional costumes and art to history and landscapes. The scenography is transversal and places the individual at the center, especially with series of portraits from several eras. Special mention for the reconstruction of a period interior with all its wooden furniture, earthenware tiles, etc. A room is also dedicated to Mata Hari, whose real name is Margaretha Geertruida Zelle (1876-1917) from Leeuwarden.
At the moment and until October 28, 2018, the museum offers a monographic exhibition dedicated to the visionary artist Maurits Cornelis Escher (1898-1972). Born in the city of Leeuwarden into a wealthy family, Escher was destined by his parents to become an architect. But he showed such artistic qualities that one of his teachers, with whom he would remain friends for many years, convinced his parents to let him embrace the artistic career. Once he graduated, he moved to Italy, which he discovered during a trip with his parents. There he also met his wife. The couple settled in Rome where Escher devoted himself to his art, creating incredible landscapes. With artistic maturity, he became more and more interested in his own inner world and became passionate about optical illusions. His works are recognized worldwide. The scenography of the exhibition mixes biographical elements and creations. Digital technology also plays an important role in mediation.
Princessehof Museum: this former palace of Marie-Louise, the first regent of the current Orange-Nassau royal family of the Netherlands, became the museum of ceramics in the nineteenth century. Holland has a long history in the creation of ceramics of all kinds, as explained in the exhibition Made in Holland, 400 years of creation. Very early on, Dutch sailors went to the far reaches of Asia. A country with a Protestant majority, they even had the right to trade with Japan, although closed, on the island of Dejima. The first European to visit Japan was the wife of a merchant marine officer of the East India Company. Tall, voluptuous, with curly hair and a Western outfit, she did not go unnoticed by the local population. While continuing its imports of "chinoiserie", Holland began to produce its own porcelain whose best known center is Delft. Very famous, Dutch productions have been widely exported to Europe. Even today, this tradition is still alive and contemporary artists are seizing ceramics with almost unlimited possibilities to express themselves and experiment.
Natural History Museum: The Frisian capital also has a Natural History Museum. On the occasion of Leeuwarden European Capital, an exhibition on local wildlife, in particular on the threats to it with pollution and agriculture, is an opportunity to introduce the population to the natural heritage and to raise visitors' awareness of environmental issues.
Oldehove : emblematic monument of the city, this leaning tower is a vestige of the old cathedral of the city never finished. Built entirely of brick on a half-hard, half-loose ground, the building, even before the completion of its construction, began to lean dangerously. The architect then tried to make up for the problem by changing the angle of construction of the upper floors, but his death put an end to the work. The inhabitants of the city love this monument which proves that even if it starts badly, it can end well.
The Festival of Languages: built opposite the Oldehove, the pavilion of the Festival of Languages offers everyone the opportunity to discover the languages of the world through an artistic installation and participatory activities. This new place is destined to become permanent.
Grote of Jacobijnerkerk : this small church, built entirely of brick in the city center, retains some elements of the thirteenth century. It has the distinction of having hosted the tombs of some of the ancestors of the current royal family, but these were destroyed during the French Revolution. The links with the royal family of Holland are still visible at the back of the building which still retains the door intended for the ruling family. Just across the street from the church was the old Jewish school. But the vast Jewish community in the city of Leeuwarden was almost entirely decimated during World War II. The square represents the void left by the disappearance of this part of the population. It is a place of memory.
Sint Bonifatiuskerk : slightly off-centre from the historic city centre, this Catholic church impresses with its size, height and brick decoration. A storm brought down part of the bell tower in the mid-twentieth century, but the inhabitants mobilized and the new elements were laid in 1974.
Blokhuispoort : this vast building, built entirely of red brick, is none other than the former prison of the city converted into a cultural center. There is a café-bookstore, workshops, shops and a theatre.
Post plaza is also a singular building. This former post and telegraph centre of the city, built in a neo-medieval style, lost its postal function in 1992. It was bought by a private fund who completely restored it preserving the architectural style and turned it into a convention center. Today, it is a 4-star hotel offering all modern comforts. It also has a restaurant serving dishes made with local products.
Museumhaven is a dock where many old boats are moored, the oldest of which date back to the nineteenth century. The majority has been transformed into private dwellings but it is possible to visit the one that has been transformed into a restaurant.
If you want to discover all these places and many more as well as enjoy many anecdotes about the history and traditions of Leeuwarden, the best solution is to book a tour of the city in French or English at A guide to Leeuwarden.
A varied program for this year of festivities
On the occasion of Leeuwarden European Capital of Culture, the city offers many activities ranging from street art to exhibitions, including shows in addition to the usual cultural activities.
Exhibitions: In addition to the exhibitions already mentioned, the city of Leeuwarden is organising until 30th June a vast exhibition on Mata Hari, a woman with an exceptional destiny, whose effigy is present everywhere in the old town.
Shows : The programme for Leeuwarden 2018 is very rich. with for example the presence of the famous Giants of Royal de Luxe, for the first time in the Netherlands, from 17 to 19 August. Another show that promises to be impressive: De Stormruiter, from September 8 to October 7, which will feature 100 Frisian horses.
Facilities : not far from the pavilion of the Festival of Languages, there are several sound installations in the small wooded park. There is also a café run by deaf people, the goal being to make themselves understood, as well as a pavilion on thrills and sound installations that see snoring a public bench, drinking a tree or two stones playing ping-pong.
Urban art: popular and participatory art par excellence, urban art sees the cohabitation of works by established artists and individuals. Among the professional articles, several are based on optical arts that are revealed only through the lens of a digital camera. There are five installations by German artist Leon Keer and pixel art depicting Rembrandt's first wife, also from Leeuwarden.
To not miss any of the most interesting places and discover lots of anecdotes about the city and its history, the guides offer tours in French ! It is also possible to take a gondola tour of the canals, as in Venice.
In connection with its territory
As a good regional capital, Leeuwarden retains a strong link with its territory, as evidenced by the creation of the circuit of 11 fountains or the strong emphasis on the Frisian identity.
The 11 fountains: At the time when winters were cold enough to allow it, the city of Leeuwarden and its neighbors were the scene of a great speed skating race: the Elfstedentocht. This popular festival is now very rare, the thickness of the ice on the canals no longer allowing to support the weight of the participants. In order to maintain the link between the eleven cities of Leeuwarden, Sneek, IJlst, Sloten, Stavoren, Hindeloopen, Workum, Bolsward, Harlingen, Franeker and Dokkum at the time, it was decided to create 11 contemporary fountains on the occasion of Leeuwarden European Capital of Culture 2018.
In Leeuwarden, it was entrusted to the Spaniard Jaume Piensa and represents two children, a girl and a boy, who face each other. In Franeker, it was the Frenchman Jean-Michel Othoniel who took care of creating the fountain in front of the Protestant church Martinikerk. It evokes the work of the great astronomer Jan Hendrik Oort. Still in the city of Franeker, do not miss the visit of the planetarium Eisa Eisinga, you will not regret it! It is the oldest planetarium still in operation in the world.
Local events in the program offer among others a return to nature, its beauties, its landscapes with Sense of Place or the old abandoned farm rehabilitated by Claudia Jongstra in Farm of the World.
Highlighting local identity: Frisians are particularly proud of their language and culture. The Frisian language is spoken by a good part of the population and, in the city, shops display a cockade representing the red water lily (it is not a heart), emblem of the region, on their windows when it is possible to speak Frisian. The emblem and colors of the city are omnipresent, as is its heraldry, a golden lion passing straight on an azure background.
Local products: Friesland is a large agricultural region. If, of Dutch gastronomy, we know mainly cheese, the city is full of bakeries (bakkerij) offering local specialties including the famous sugar bread (and cinnamon) very popular for breakfast. As the region is suitable for raising dairy cows, it is not uncommon to see the mention "Friesian milk" on the map of cafes and restaurants. To eat, here are some addresses: Hotel Post Plaza (Tweebaksmarkt 25-27, 8911 KW Leeuwarden) for a tasty and original meal based on seasonal products. At the Fruitbar (Naauw 5A) or Broodje Bewust (Groentemarkt 1) for a balanced takeaway meal. For quick dining, there is the Douwe Egberts café (Ruiterskwartier 111). And for a good ice cream, head to De Vijff Roode Cruijsen on Kleine Kerkstraat.
Thus, Leeuwarden offers an impressive diversity of cultural activities with no less than 600 listed monuments, but also streets dedicated to shopping, many restaurants etc. This city is ideal for an exotic city break or a short holiday.
Photos: ©SandraBERNARD unless otherwise stated in the caption
